So finally I am at the stage which I enjoy the most, getting the airbrush out and painting!
Once again, a little history about the camo shade directly from Group Captain Peter Petter-Bowyer:
“ Surface paint was the bigger problem. We established that colour was not the main criteria in selecting a paint mix that exhibited low radiation properties in the 2-micron wave band. In fact, and surprisingly, it was easier to achieve this with white paint than in the camouflage colours we intended to retain.
We worked long hours with paint manufacturers and the Paint Shop at New Sarum to develop the ideal paint mixes for our camouflage colours. What they eventually produced virtually eliminated radiation of infrared energy in the critical wavelength sector, even when the surface was hot.
The dedication and enthusiasm of Air Force technicians and paint manufacturers made Archie’s job easier and the results were impressive. We also noticed that our new paint lost colour very rapidly whereas the reflective properties were not lost. So we simply accepted lighter camouflage effects. “To show a good representation of the extreme fading, this pic shows a section that has been re-sprayed above the port door and it is very clear to see how this compares with the rest of the green elsewhere.
I am hoping to get a look similar to this but perhaps with not as much weathering which has never been my strong point!
As I said a little earlier in the build, I have chosen a specific airframe, which seems to have had a few iterations of her serial number – RRAF158 / RRAF708 / R3708. She was part of No 3 Squadron in the Rhodesian Air Force. With kind permission of my uncle, I share here his line drawing which has been invaluable so far in getting certain things correct, note as an example the single window at the navigator’s station and the higher placement of the ram air intake just forward of this window. It has also been useful for the preparation of the various aerials / electronics as well as of course with the actual camo pattern.
Paint started with an overall coat of Tamiya lacquer paint, LP16 wooden deck tan, which is a nice neutral brown shade to build the faded camo on top of and also goes down smooth as any primer I have used. This showed up a few blemishes which needed filling and sanding but nothing that wasn’t easy to fix.
Then it was on to the actual shades and as per the above historical note, this anti-strella paint faded very fast and ended up almost bleached out, with just about any shade in-between during this fading process so there really is no wrong shade thank goodness. After some back and forth with my uncle we settled on the following mixes:
Upper brown – Tamiya XF-55 and XF-2 ratio 4:2
Upper green – Vallejo 892 and 820 ratio 1:6 (it starts as a dark olive green which is why it required so much white)
Underside brown – Vallejo 880, 986, 820 and 884 ratio 4:4:2:1
Here it is after applying the upper brown in a patchy application, laying it on very thin and already trying to shade within the various panel and rivet lines, then applying the green in the same manner.
Next up will be some post shading / fading and then the underside.
Sean