The SAAF Forum

I was wrong - the tan used was too pink. I mixed 50% Matt Pactra Dark Earth and 50% Tamiya gloss enamel and sprayed this over the original tan - looks much better now - unfortunately the light when I took the pics doesn't do the colour justice.

First pic - left part of wing with dark earth over spray, right part of wing with original "pink" tan :



Second pic - whole model done with dark earth over spray :

Brown applied and dry - time for the masking tape and Prestic worms :

Green applied - what a journey of multiple layers trying to get the green right - finally settled on base coat of XtraColour FS14086 dark green - too dark, so oversprayed with a mix of 3 parts FS14096 / 1 part X2 white - I think it looks right when comparing the model to photos. Excuse colour on photos - taken under all sorts of artificial light







Will wait a week for the green to dry fully before embarking on the weathering - that's going to be really time consuming as this is not a small kit with lots of surface to cover !

I think the brown does look better Mistral, the green / brown / blue pattern is looking very good. Your build is becoming more interesting as you go along.

Hi Mistral

Camo looks perfect.

What is your opinion on the Trumpeter vs. Revell/monogram Dak?

All i can say is it looks f........ awesome!!!!!!

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There are only two types of aircraft — fighters and targets.

Fantastic looking Dak!! You cant beat a radial Dak in SAAF Camo1!!!

I have a quick question, with regard to your use of the prestick worms for masking.

I have tried this technique before but my results were less than satisfactory... If you could perhaps give a few tips on how to do it properly, I know that I would be very appreciative and I am sure that a few others would like to know the secret as well!!!

I cannot wait to see this bird finished! I have just bought myself a set of trestles and a piece of wood to serve as my new model building station. I am very eagre to start again.

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When in doubt, use a hammer. The bigger the doubt, the bigger the hammer.

Thnaks MARS and Hornet 1.

On the subject of the Monogram Dak, I only know what I've read in some forum reviews - it's generally considered a better kit than the Trumpeter one and has the correct engine nacelles which is the main issue with the Trumpeter kit. The only inaccuracy I've heard reported on the Monogram Dak is the shape of the nose. The Monogram Dak even provided a toilet for the rear cabin which is not visible once fuselage halves are brought together ! Many purists don't like the high level of recessed rivetting on the Trumpeter Dak. I'm assuming that, in line with Monogram's other kits, their Dak would have raised panel lines - my personal preference is for recessed panel lines. Scribing panel lines is too much PT - I have the utmost respect for modellers who do this. From a pure economics point of view, the Monogram kit is cheaper than the Trumpeter one. Considering the extra R200 for the correct engine nacelles from Hannants, the Monogram kit is the better deal. I believe that Revell has just re-released the Monogram Dak.

You'll still have to do all the mods to make a SAAF Dak whichever kit is used.

Cheers

Hi Portamus - thanks.

I lightly mark the delineation between camoflage colours on the model using a soft pencil. I then apply the lighter coat (in the case of the Dak, the brown) making sure that this overlaps the pencil marks quite a bit. I then apply the prestic worms making sure that there is sufficient overlap of the first colour i.e. when I apply the second colour and remove the prestic, there'll be no nasty grey base plastic showing through. The balance of the area to be masked is done with a low tack masking tape (so as not to lift the paint) and more prestic. It's important to give the whole masking a "once over" before spraying the next colour - nothing more frustrating than taking off the masking to find the second colour in patches where masking has not been properly applied. In terms of the prestic worms, I take a small piece and roll this into a ball. I then gently, using both hands, roll it into a worm from the center outwards. I keep rolling, trying to maintain a constant thickness until it's around 3 to 4mm in diameter. This is then layed onto the model and pressed down slightly to ensure positive adhesion. Airbrushing over this is done at as close to a 90 degree angle to the surface. Make sure that the same amount of paint that is applied to the center of the area is applied to the edges of the worms otherwise you'll get an unnatural fade towards the worms. Remove the prestic as quickly after painting as possible as the oil in the prestic can stain the paint, especially matt colours.

Hope this helps. I think what is most important here is the thickness of the worms and the consistency of that thickness.

Cheers.

This is turning out to be an epic build!

Hi Tucano - I've just seen your build posted last year on the modelling forum - nice job - now I understand your comment !

Cheers

Airbrushed the yellow emergency exit markings on - close up photography always shows the slightest blemish !!

Fuselage emergency exit :



Front cockpit windows and yellow panels for warning signs - still to be added ....

Engine and cowling temporarily in place - inside of cowling lacking a bit in detail

Looking good

Yep... its missing obscene amounts of oil, leaked out of those museum specimen neverbeenrunever radials.



I cannot wait to see it with a serious wash in there! Dirty radials... gotta love 'em!

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When in doubt, use a hammer. The bigger the doubt, the bigger the hammer.