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PostPosted: 04 Jan 2017, 09:27 
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Joined: 03 Apr 2013, 18:00
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For me, the under carriage. I always seem to hit a brick wall when it gets to that stage. What is yours?


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PostPosted: 04 Jan 2017, 10:59 
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Joined: 26 Sep 2009, 09:19
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Location: short final 31 fullstop
3 words - filling and sanding!


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PostPosted: 05 Jan 2017, 18:27 
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Joined: 31 Aug 2010, 15:01
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Location: Centurion, Pretoria, SA
Crappy decals which silver :?


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PostPosted: 05 Jan 2017, 20:34 
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Mistral wrote:
Crappy decals which silver :?


Woody on ARC used Tamiya extra thin to fix silvering on his Blackbird...

http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/289818-172-italeri-sr-71-blackbird/&page=5


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PostPosted: 06 Jan 2017, 04:10 
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Joined: 01 Apr 2012, 04:49
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Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Rescribing panel lines and, dare I say it...painting!


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PostPosted: 06 Jan 2017, 06:01 
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Garry from what I saw on your Super Etandard you have NO problem with painting mate :smt023


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PostPosted: 07 Jan 2017, 21:40 
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Location: Centurion, Pretoria, SA
MARS wrote:
Mistral wrote:
Crappy decals which silver :?


Woody on ARC used Tamiya extra thin to fix silvering on his Blackbird...

http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/289818-172-italeri-sr-71-blackbird/&page=5


Yes, have tried that before. It works but only one application. The second application literally gets the decal ink running. Impossible to use on large decals. Also too much of the stuff and your base coat will start melting. Oh yes, and it doesn't work if your base coat is acrylic gloss.....


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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2017, 12:17 
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I get hardly any silvering using Tamiya Markfit.


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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2017, 17:50 
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Joined: 31 Aug 2010, 15:01
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Location: Centurion, Pretoria, SA
The decal "solvent" doesn't always prevent silvering. It helps "melt" the decal down onto surface details. The thing that prevents silvering mostly is a really smooth gloss finish. That said, I've had kit decals which silver irrespective of what finish or solvent I use. Roden decals come to mind. I've tried Markit strong and for me it doesn't work. This whole decal thing is a mystery. Hence my distaste for the decalling phase of modelling.


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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2017, 23:09 
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Joined: 22 Oct 2005, 05:47
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Not so much a pet hate but I prefer building them to painting them - something about cleaning airbrushes.

Mistral wrote:
This whole decal thing is a mystery.


Check this out: http://www.arcair.com/arcarm/tnt1/001-100/TNT065-Decals-Pino/00.shtm

The part about leaving the decals to soften after dipping in water is good advice.

Regards,
Stratobat

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'If the literal sense makes good sense, seek no other sense lest you come up with nonsense'


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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2017, 08:29 
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Joined: 31 Aug 2010, 15:01
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Location: Centurion, Pretoria, SA
Yes. I take the decals out of the water after 5 seconds and let them sit until loose. Sometimes I turn them flat upside down on a damp solid surface once they've uncurled (they may crack if you flatten them too soon). Once ready they go onto a patch of microset on the model and I then gently roll them down with a damp earbud to get all bubbles out. I then apply microsol making sure it's evenly spread I.e. No beads of microsol should remain as this'll melt a nasty spot onto your decal. If needs, after 10 minutes I'll roll a wet earbud to get the decals to conform - with some decals they do this all by themselves. May have to apply a second dose in some cases. For really stubborn decals, I'll gently run a pinkie nail along the panel lines to force the decal in. This is best done 10 minutes after microsol was applied whilst the decal has some plasticity to it and should be done in several gentle passes otherwise you could tear the decal. Like I said, it's all a mystery and every decal sheet is different.

I've heard guys singing the praises of Cartograph decals but these can vary significantly depending on what decal film was used. I've had Cartograph decals go on like paint. Then you get the Revell Mirage IIIC 32nd scale decals beautifully printed by Cartograph but these are like cardboard. Trumpeter decals have always been good for me. Airfix latest decals are beautifully printed but need some help conforming. Never had any success with Tamiya. Hasegawa traditionally were alway good. So, a bit of a witches brew then. Wish I could find Solvaset somewhere !!!


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