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PostPosted: 07 May 2012, 21:34 
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Location: Manchester, UK
If anyone can get a copy of the June 2012 Airfix Model World magazine it has a 7 page article covering masking methods, painting and polishing different clear parts of a model such as canopies. Will ask Airfix if I can have their permission to scan this article for the forum.

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PostPosted: 09 May 2012, 19:19 
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In the case of a mould line, like most modern jet canopies have (manufacturers use 'slide mould' technology to recreate the bulged bubble canopies), try the following:
1. Protect the rest of the canopy by laying strips of masking tape about 3-5mm from the mould line (either side). Use a new, sharp blade to scrape the mould line off.
You will probably be left with a 1-2mm scuff mark now.
2. Remove the tape and use progressively finer grades of WET wet 'n dry paper. I start off with 1500 grit, then move on to 4000 and finish off with 8000 grit.
3. You can then use a car type polish compound or even Brasso and/or Silvo. Make sure you wash this off thoroughly with cool slightly soapy(dish wash liquid like Sunlight/Fairy NOT Lux/Lifebouy etc!)

Don't rub too vigorously as the clear styrene is quite brittle, so it can develop friction cracks caused by heating from friction.

4. To finish, dip in Future/Klear etc. and it will 'remove' all the extremely fine scratches. If there are still little noticeable scratches you want to remove, let the canopy soak in Windex to remove the Future/Klear. Repeat the above steps to remove the scratches as necessary.

P.S. Make sure if you use an automative type polish it doesn't have silicone additives!

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PostPosted: 16 May 2012, 08:03 
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More on weathering with pastels, from Mistral:

Quote:
I use soft chalk pastels (Faber-Castel or similar) available from any decent art shop. Use a sharp knife to shave pastel dust. Apply with a soft thin brush along panel lines. Blow off excess dust. Work remainig pastel in using large soft brush. Apply localised scuffing using pastel and chopped-off brush. Take a look at the non-SAAF model forum under the Lightning build for some pics. Hope that helps :D Lots of trial and errorso practice on an old model. Protect pastelling by applying final varnish.


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PostPosted: 02 Jun 2012, 23:05 
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Joined: 02 May 2012, 20:21
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Location: Cape Town
What model kit would you recommend for beginners?


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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2012, 13:00 
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Joined: 02 May 2012, 20:21
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I am having trouble converting Humbrol numbers 24 and 117 to Tamiya numbers.
Could someone please help?


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PostPosted: 29 Jun 2012, 07:40 
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Nathan, I can't find any conversion chart with 24 and 117 - would you be able to use Humbrol Acrylics instead?

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PostPosted: 29 Jun 2012, 08:18 
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Nathan, the starter kits by Airfix are generally pretty good kits to start with. We use them for our junior modellers teaching sessions


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PostPosted: 10 Jul 2012, 21:29 
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Tip no. 69:
For glueing canopies to airframes, PE to canopies, PE to plastic, try using clear nail varnish. It takes longer to set than CA (superglue), won't fog a canopy, yet will hold stronger than Future/Klear/PVA glue.

Tip no. 85:
Try PVA (Ponal) 'white glue' to glue canopies to airframes, PE to canopies and PE to plastic. It dries clear, can easily be cleaned up (a damp cotton bud will whisk away the excess as it is squeezed out from a join) and it has good gap filling properties.
Minimal shrinkage in small areas makes it good to fill awkward areas too as it can be easily and harmlessly cleared up.

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PostPosted: 03 Sep 2012, 15:55 
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A good tip (if you dont know this one already), for using the Tam filler is this...

Put masking tape on either side of the seam you wish you fill (as close as possible to the seam)... Apply the filler with an old scalpel blade (I find works the best) to cover the seam line. Let it sit for a moment or two. Dip an ear bud (preferably clean and new), into Tam Extra Thin Cement (dab off some excess), and then wipe that over the filler to thin it down. Continue and you will remove the majority of the filler you would otherwise have to sand away, and with that sanding, remove alot of surface detail. Some sanding will still be required, but this removes a HUGE amount of seam work and rescribing work from the desk.

If you guys want, I'll take photos to demonstrate what I'm talking about.

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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2012, 18:13 
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I will post a few tips on ho I weather my models - made easy!

For chipped paint as seen on especially Japanese planes and planes that operated from dirt strips I prefer to use the "salt method" because it is dead easy and gives nice real looking chips. It does work OK-ish with enamels, but I find acrylic to give sharper results.

I start off by spraying the whole model silver enamel.
Then I apply normal table salt with a damp brush to the areas I want to look chipped.
Usually around walkways,opening panels, UC doors,stab leading edges ect
Image

It only takes a bit of time to dry then I over paint the plane as normal, in this case Tamiya IJN Grey acrylic.
Image
When the paint is dry I simply pick off the salt parts with a toothpick to reveal the underlying silver.

Image

In this case I did not do allot of chipping.
I will post a few more pix of how I "dirty up" the model with pastels later.

T


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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2012, 05:50 
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Location: Cape Town
ANY MORE TIPS OR IDEAS on glueing parts together after its been painted. once my aircraft is painted and i want to attach the landing gear and armament or any other parts that may need glueing onto the aircraft> how do i get the glue to not damage the paint. and i find the parts dont glue so leka together then


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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2012, 09:56 
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First thing is to make sure that there is no paint on any of the joints - this can cause the glue and paint to "blob" and looks ugly.

If there is paint on the seams or joints then a must, we'll for me, is to use Tamiya's Extra Thin Cement (Green bottle top). I swear by the stuff. I have heard that it does not work well on some plastics but I have not had any problems


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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2012, 10:25 
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vlamgat16 wrote:
First thing is to make sure that there is no paint on any of the joints - this can cause the glue and paint to "blob" and looks ugly.

If there is paint on the seams or joints then a must, we'll for me, is to use Tamiya's Extra Thin Cement (Green bottle top). I swear by the stuff. I have heard that it does not work well on some plastics but I have not had any problems


I've had that same problem, Mifels. I use Alcon cold glue, or Ponal Wood glue to glue painted parts such as landing gear or flaps. Also works a charm on canopies, no staining or misting up of the clear parts. :smt023

Having said that, though, the wood glue is not as strong as the normal cement, as it does not "fuse" the two parts together, so if your model will be moved alot, after completion, such as from one display to another, etc. it might not be such a good idea.

Best is to plan ahead before painting, and ensuring that those parts that you need to glue is masked off to prevent paint on them. I know, that sounds daunting!!! :shock: :lol: But the more kits you build the more you learn and by your fourth or fifth kit you'll know where to paint and where not, and in what sequence.

To me figuring out the sequence of painting was a challenge, and still is. I'm only on my fourth kit, since I started airbrushing, but am learning fast.
:D


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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2012, 10:45 
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If paint does get on a seam or a joint a couple of strokes of 1000 grit sand/water paper solves the problem

Tip : use caustic oven cleaner to remove old or bad paint jobs - depending on how old the paint is, 6 hours will loosen the paint which is then removed with warm water and a toothbrush

Tip : if you want to take a fuselage or parts part after they have been glued together for a while, pop the part into a plastic bag and then into the freezer. Leave it overnight - next day remove from packet and then using a suitable tool, carefully but firmly tap along the seam line - the glue should be brittle enough and will simply part.


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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2012, 12:37 
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Location: Centurion, Pretoria, SA
To glue fiddly bits, use a piece of 5cm long very thin electrical wire looped into a 1 to 2mm diameter loop at one end. Pop a bead of super-glue (cyano acrylate) into the loop and apply to the part you want glued. Capillary action will pull the glue into the join area. This is how I apply all the odds and sods at the end of the build - e.g. flaps, slat, undercarriage, antennae etc. The advantage over wood glue is that it sets almost instantly. Be careful not to apply too much super-glue near paint - it will bubble the paint like Tamiya Super Tin does. And don't take it near glazed areas - it causes fogging. Wood glue is better for that.


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